Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Return to Frankie's Nursery


Back to Frankie's Nursery for the first time since November. I spent over three hours walking around with Frank, realizing only later that I had become a buffet for mosquitoes. Rubbing citronella grass on my legs was too little, too late. We harvested bamboo shoots and nibbled on the stem of a taro plant, from a variety of taro that's low in calcium oxalate--the stuff that usually makes your throat itchy if any part of the taro plant isn't cooked thoroughly. We probably ate a dozen or so fruits, Frank scrambling up trees to pick them, as lithe as a ten-year-old. Unfortunately, I remember the names of few of them and my hands were too sticky to take pictures.

What I did manage to document: above, nutmeg, flanked by yuzu and a fruit similar to a plum.


A star anise-like variety of spice.


Jackfruit as big as a linebacker's torso. 


Cut open, there's something so primal about jackfruit...so fleshy and large. Tastes of pineapple and cantaloupe. Frank sent me home with a champedek, similar to a jackfruit, but has hints of garlic. As it ripens, it smells like natural gas...Ben kept moving it to the farthest corners of the yard, as far away from our house as possible. Frank has many stories of people who have called inspectors to investigate a gas leak, of valets who are afraid to start a car all because of a champedek ripening inside.


Miracle berry. First heard about it in a New York Times article...still have "throw a miracle berry party" on my to-do list, even if it's so last year. Without thinking, I ate it halfway through our farm ramble, and everything afterwards just tasted absurdly sweet. I went through the citrus grove, sucking on limes and lemons while Frank got a kick feeding me unripe fruit. After an hour, I felt like I had drank a six-pack of soda and was craving something, anything, salty or sour.


Lotus flower...when they open, they're as big as my face.


When the "shower heads" dry up, they open and you can pry out the lotus seeds. Perfect for the next time I make
ba bao fan.


Thursday, September 17, 2009

Kupa‘a Farms

Kupa‘a Farms is a 4-acre organic farm in upcountry Maui run by Gerry Ross and Janet Simpson. A few of my favorite things about Kupa‘a Farms:

- When we were visiting, Kupa‘a's CSA box contained pineapples (how many CSAs in the country can boast that?!) and red, white and blue potatoes in time for July 4. 
- Like other good organic farms, Gerry and Janet are truly cultivators of the soil; last winter, while heavy rains washed away neighboring farms' crops, so that onions were found rolling around Kula Highway below, Kupa‘a Farms lost barely an inch of soil, a testament to its soil health. 

- In a recent cupping competition hosted by the Hawaii Coffee Association, Kupa‘a Farms coffee placed 7th out of 69 entries. It placed first of all the Maui coffees and bested quite a few Kona coffees.  
- And my absolute favorite thing about Gerry and Janet: with a trap, they catch would-be predators of their crops–small birds and pheasants, mostly–eat them. Gerry admits that sometimes they're kind of tough, but it's all part of eating what the farm provides.

Monday, September 7, 2009

Market Fresh Bistro


A reliable tip when traveling is to ask chefs where they like to eat. Our new favorite idea is to ask farmers where they like to eat and where they send their produce to. For farmer Gerry Ross of Kupa‘a Farms in Kula, Maui, the answer to both questions is the same: Market Fresh Bistro. These days "local" is a favorite buzzword marketers love to attach to food, but the eateries that truly embody the philosophy, such as places like town in Kaimuki, and now, Market Fresh Bistro, capture my heart and palate completely. Here, it's not really about the fancy flourishes and sauces a chef could put on a plate, but rather, letting fresh, local ingredients shine.

Above, Maui organic strawberries on mini Belgian waffles (actually, probably the menu item with the fewest local products, but I have a weakness for food in miniature) and below, Maui Cattle Company shortrib with polenta and fried egg.


The last Thursday of every month, they have a farmers' dinner, showcasing a different Maui farm. We almost made a special trip for the Kupa‘a Farms dinner, having seen all of Gerry's beautiful produce, but we suspect when we find ourselves again at Market Fresh Bistro for a future farmers' dinner, the showcased farmer and food will be just as radiant.